Few Westerners understand ramen like fiery New York chef Mr. Ivan Orkin . After all, it was this self-confessed Japanophile and star of Netflix 's Chef 's Table who, after devoting himself to the intricacies of the craft 20 years ago, had the audacity to launch his first ramen restaurant not in the United States but in Tokyo's Setagaya district in 2006. Success was swift, and after winning over the Japanese public, his Ivan Ramen empire later expanded to New York, establishing Orkin as a charismatic authority on noodles.
“The difference between a good bowl of ramen and a great bowl is harmony,” says Orkin . “Everything should feel like it flows together.” He emphasizes the importance of matching the noodles to the soup, the supporting role played by fat, tare (Japanese for sauce), and broth, and the fact that the chosen toppings should never overpower the dish. “Also, remember that eating a bowl of ramen should be fun,” he adds. “It’s messy, it’s noisy, and if you eat it right, you’ll slurp it up and make noises that might not normally be acceptable.”
Having played a role in the worldwide resurgence of ramen, Orkin shares his definitive list of where you should order your next bowl.
01. LONDON
“This London mini-chain is all about having fun,” says Orkin . “While they’re serious about making ramen, they’re not afraid to think outside the box. They like to make mashup ramen dishes that combine a Japanese aesthetic with a Western twist, like the special Reuben Ramen they offered in April. The staff are a lot of fun, and it feels like you’re constantly at a party.”
02. PARIS
"This very popular shop is designed to resemble the since-closed Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. Shiny floors with Styrofoam boxes filled with plastic fish, Japanese signs everywhere, and recorded voices and sounds from the market. The ramen is very tasty, and Jean-Baptiste Meusnier , the pilot turned ramen fanatic, doesn't shy away from fishy flavors. His passion for ramen is palpable, and the whole experience is memorable, so get in line and check it out."
03. BRUSSELS
"When I visited Umamido , I was struck by its simplicity. The original shop, in particular, is small and welcoming, and looks like a shop you might stumble upon in Tokyo. The branding is fantastic, and you immediately want to wear one of their T-shirts. The menu sticks to the basics, and you can put together a great meal. They even bottle their own beer. They now have stores in Brussels, Antwerp, and Switzerland ."
04. NEW YORK
"Down the block from Ivan Ramen , this shop on Manhattan's Lower East Side is run by one of Japan's ramen giants, Mr. Shigetoshi Nakamura . His Kanagawa shop was legendary. I remember when he came to visit Ivan Ramen in Tokyo, I thought I was going to die. Now I'm proud to call him my friend. His Torigara ramen is a bowl that must be tried by anyone who calls themselves a ramen fan. Everything on the menu is delicious, but the Torigara is incredible."
05. TOKYO
" Nagi has become something of a global empire, but this shop, in my opinion, has the original DNA of what makes it such a great ramen brand. Back in the day, the owner, Mr. Ikuta Satoshi , made everything himself, taking his fresh noodles by train from Tachikawa (a Tokyo suburb) all the way to Shinjuku. Nagi Golden-gai is an incredibly small shop located at the top of a steep staircase in a seedy part of Shinjuku. The shop is so original that it has a truck mirror tilted downward so the staff can see who's waiting and a pipe so they can talk to you from the second floor. And the food! They serve the famous Nagi tonkotsu , but with an infusion of niboshi , or dried sardine. The Golden Gai area is famous for its tasty restaurants, so it's just another reason to visit if you find yourself in the area."
06. OSAKA
"This shop is run by my good friend Shimazaki Junichi, whose shop 69nroll features prominently in my book. He moved his establishment to the Osaka area six or seven years ago. While the shop is no longer easily accessible from Tokyo, he still offers his excellent ramen. He was once the king of the hill, and his broths are otherworldly. While he makes different styles, his chicken and dashi broths are transformative, and each bowl is made with the same incredible attention to detail. It's also a lot of fun watching him prepare a bowl of ramen; he emits a fiery intensity that I never tire of observing. If you find yourself in Osaka, make the short trip and try a bowl—it's definitely worth it."
Photo of Niboshi ramen at Nagi Golden Gai , Shinjuku, Tokyo.
Text by Mr Ben Olsen
